By night, Shinjuku Station is an astonishing collection of bars and clubs, strip joints, hole-in-the-wall restaurants, pinball parlours, and peep shows - just about anything that amuses, arouses, alters, or intoxicates is for sale in Higashi-Shinjuku. Drunken fistfights are hardly unusual here; petty theft is not unknown. Not surprisingly, Higashi-Shinjuku has the city's largest and busiest police substation.